Sunday, September 6, 2026/Taipei/Friday letter

The Friday letter · No. 01

Balconies, alerts, and the first cool evenings

Friday, September 4, 2026 · From the Taipei desk

Good evening from Taipei. The basin is still holding the summer, but the light drops earlier on the river now. Mid-Autumn is three weeks away — the first time many of this year’s arrivals will be invited onto someone else’s balcony. This letter is for that week, and for the quieter ones around it.

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Pomelos and mooncakes on a Taiwan balcony table at dusk, city lights beyond

01 · culture

Mid-Autumn for people who just got here

Friday, September 25 is a holiday. The interesting part is the three weeks before it: pomelos in the supermarket, a balcony invitation, and the question of what you are supposed to bring.

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  1. 02 · living

    What the typhoon alerts actually mean

    A yellow, orange, or red from the Central Weather Administration is not a vibe. It is a set of decisions about work, schools, and whether you should still go to Costco.

  2. 03 · living

    The Friday trash ritual

    Taipei does not have a chute. It has a truck, a song, and a set of bags you can only buy at certain counters. Get this wrong once and you will not forget it.

  3. 04 · travel

    A weekend on the northeast coast, without Jiufen

    The old street will still be there in November. This Saturday, take the train to Ruifang and keep going until the Pacific is louder than the tour groups.

  4. 05 · business

    How to read a Taiwanese payslip

    Labor insurance, NHI, the pension contribution with the slightly too-long name — the deductions are less mysterious than they look in the first month.

This week in Taiwan History

Kinmen’s granite coast at dusk, weathered bunkers facing a hazy strait

September 3, 1954 — the first shells on Kinmen

Seventy-two years ago yesterday the First Taiwan Strait Crisis began. Kinmen is a county you can fly to for lunch. It was also, for an afternoon, the center of the Cold War.

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Until Friday.

If someone sent you this letter, stay. If you live here and we missed something, suggest a story. The desk reads everything.